A steep climb up and down the plateau gives way to Spain’s Meseta, a landscape that is a total masterpiece. My photos don’t do it justice. Breathtaking vistas that stretched on for miles thanks to a clear, cool, and sunny day. I’d walk it again tomorrow if I could.

Today I moved into the province of Palencia, abundant with rivers and canals that irrigate the deep brown soil out from which sprouts wheat, vegetables, and vineyards.

The track I started on this morning was laid 2,000 years ago by the Romans (see photos, down hill toward city and low stone bridge). People have been journeying on it everyday since. Stop and think about that—FEEL it!

So many people who live along the Way dedicate themselves to it, and the pilgrims who walk it. Every day I, and countless others, are recipients of that dedication. Every day.

The Way, if you want it to be, is just as much and inner journey as an outer one.

Solo walk that started cloudy/chilly turned to bright/pleasant by noon. Arrived in C to learn that the city’s water supply is off, which means I’m staying one town up and will taxi back in the morn to complete the walk to my next stop. No biggie.

Along the Way I wound through the 14th century ruins of the ancient covento de San Anton (photo, archway with street running thru). I then visited the splendidly relaxing Covento de Santa Clara (photo, cross on right) also dating to the 14thC. There I enjoyed the nun’s bird breeding cages and meditated in their sunny, quiet square.

I can’t help but think how this Way is like walking deeper into my heart. I hardly think about much of anything. Instead I just feel God’s grace and gratitude and openness (and sometimes a sore foot).

Also photoed: C’s 9thC hilltop castle ruins.

With the luxury of a taxi I previewed 11thC St Martin church in Fromista (photo, solo church w/three apses) while it was open for tours. It’s been meticulously remolded and evokes such reverence in its simplicity. The altar has a wood carved crucifix flanked by St Martin (of course) and Santiago.

The scenery has flattened out giving the eye such a treat with all green and brown and distant snow capped mountains.

Even warmer, sunnier tomorrow. Can’t wait.

Once I figured out how to get out of B, I enjoyed a pleasant and (relatively) short walk to H.

On the way out of B I stopped by the Real Monasterio de Las Huelgas (see photo, gate & walls). I made a wish by the fountain and swung back by the cathedral with the thought of going to Mass but I was a bit too late to slip in unnoticed.

I managed to make Mass further up the Way in Tardajos. A delightful service with people of all ages and music provided by a wonderful vocalist accompanied by a guitar. I tripped on my way out of church and startled a bunch of folks. My clumsiness was comic relief for about 15 kids and a few parents who tried their hardest to conceal their laughter.

Walked a bit with another pilgrim on the way out of B. We’d met before about a week ago. It was nice to reconnect.

H is a tiny town with next to nothing to do, see. Perfect for a long day of rest.

🥶 cold walk today! Walking into and out of big cities must be an acquired taste, one I’ve yet to acquire, and unlikely will. But once in Burgos, it’s pure delight.

Touring the cathedral was mega. If I could summarize how amazing it is, I would. But I can’t.

Today’s walk was another lonely one. No other pilgrims. I feel so grateful to have made it this far. Along the way there are altars people have erected. Other pilgrims and passersby attach prayers and photos and messages to them (see photo). To stand face to face with so much hope and prayer and loss and love is worth all the miles it takes to walk this Way. To find the remnants of someone’s heart’s desire is…i don’t know. It’s just grace, an inbreaking of goodness into our troubled world.

Cold tomorrow, then sunny for the foreseeable future.

Snow in the mountains, but otherwise cold and clear on either sides below. No other pilgrims on the way, but I saw some dudes in the mountains tooling around in a bizarre looking vehicle. They got a kick out of a pilgrim alone in the snowy mountains and photographed me as I passed by. (They offered me a ride, which I found touching)

Hiking out of Belorado you can see the caves ancient hermits once used (see photo). The 12th century Augustinian monastery in San Juan is a highlight in an otherwise desolate town, especially this time of year.

The compassion of strangers is humbling. There’s a story there, but no time for that now. All I’ll say is, God is good.

Forecast has sunnier and warmer weather in store. I can’t wait!

I’ve now passed from the La Rioja region into Castilla y Leon. Today’s walk was another solitary one, though with a burst of sun for a bit! Very small towns and no other pilgrims. I was greeted by a swarm of cats in St Dominic’s birthplace, Viloria de la Rioja. They followed me all the way to the other side of town and mewed as I left.

Arriving in Belorado I visited the Monastery of Santa Clara (see photo) that dates to the 14th century. The altarpiece is amazing (see photo). I tried to purchase some of the nun’s famous candy and cookies but no one answered the bell. I’ll try again tomorrow. Likely another remote walk tomorrow with possibly some snow.

A charming, solitary (I saw no one) walk along poorly marked paths. This one passed through an almost entirely empty (and soulless) housing complex. Such an eerie, perplexing site that clearly no one wants to move to.

The dirt has changed from brown to deep red, characteristic of the Rioja region—renowned for its wines and friendly atmosphere (both true in my experience).

My hostel hosts received me with such warmth! They talked me into having a late breakfast with them in their indoor garden.

I was mesmerized by the cathedral in SD, especially the altarpiece with live chickens in it (see photo, top right, squint). I think cathedrals are amazing. But for whatever reason, I seek out the small churches to pray in.

Another manageable walk tomorrow, likely with a bit of rain. Looking forward to it. Rain helps me think.

The cloudy skies offered a fitting backdrop for an introspective walk.

Arriving in N, I toured the amazing Monastery of Santa Maria la Real (abandoned in 2017, now being restored as a museum). Many of the Basque noble families from the 16th to 18th century are entombed here. The church is breathtaking inside, especially the main altar which is a Riojan Romanesque masterpiece (see photo). I’m especially fond of St Benedict and he makes an appearance in it!

Two ~20m hikes in a row isn’t to be sneezed at (at least for me). Tomorrow I have a tidy hike—good for the feet!

My hostel hosts tonight and tomorrow morn are so charming. It’s people like this, and the abundance of welcome they offer, that make the Camino feel personal. It’s humbling to be welcomed like family in a foreign land.

Brrrr 🥶 18+ miler today. Lots of fun. Too busy for a long post. Love y’all.

Very tidy walk through rolling hills under pleasant skies. Most remote walk yet. Hardly any cities, ppl. Only saw a handful of locals mountain biking or hiking.

Arrived in LA just as the annual town festival was winding down. Dinner was a trip with all the revelers reveling.

Tomorrow I will attempt my longest walk thus far. Pray for my feet!

Pleasant, cool walk under blue skies and sun—Wound through delightful cities.

I’ve discovered my favorite afternoon snack: a cortado and two Gildas. They give me a good pick-me-up just as my feet start to fall off.

I’m currently watching a soccer—football?—match in a bar, waiting for the cook to show up (many kitchens don’t open ‘til 8). By the time I eat every night I’m SO hungry. But it tastes DELICIOUS. (I should wait until I’m hungry to eat more often, but that’s not going to last once I get back home where my snack-packed kitchen awaits) The other day I held myself over with a Kind cereal bar. Best thing I’ve ever eaten, like 3* Michelin stuff. Actually better, like manna from heaven.

E is a marvelous city, very strollable, packed with character and history. What a blessing. Tomorrow’s weather looks similar to today’s.