A warm walk from the outset through the Galician countryside, with rolling hills home to farms and pastures and thick woods.

On the way out of T, I swung by a 16thC blacksmith’s shop (photo, rounded portion along wall) where ancient pilgrims once ate and tended their horses (old school Spanish blacksmiths knew their way around a kitchen too it seems).

After that, HOLY COW! A lot of 🐮. Like A LOT a lot. Which means I dodged a lot of 💩 today.

In S, after checking to make sure the bottoms of my shoes were clean (they were), I checked out the 13thC Monasterio de la Magdalena (long building w/bench in front). Later I went to Mass at the 19thC Iglesia de Santa Mariña (photo). The priest had us in and out of there in 22 mins flat. A Camino record!

More pilgrims have joined the Way now that it’s about 100kms to SDC, a common practice for various reasons.

As I savor these final walks, I notice I’m walking slower, stopping to rest and behold and coffee more than before. By God’s grace a measure of this slowness and curiosity will endure in me once this pilgrimage is through.

Beautiful day for a walk down the mountain. A bit slippery, but manageable.

On the way I passed through Liñares to see the 8thC parish church of San Esteban (photos, door into altar and church with low wall around)

Wasn’t able to find any church having Mass so I did devotions in the cathedral of creation. (RW Emerson would be proud)

Just before T, there’s an ancient stretch of Camino through Fillibal with narrow streets, granite buildings, and a marvelous tree (see photos).

The other church photograph is of T’s 18thC parish dedicated to Santiago (check out the 3 castles carved on the tower).

Nearby are ancient limestone quarries. Bygone pilgrims used to take as many stones as they could carry and deliver them to kilns a few cities away to help build Santiago’s cathedral. Pretty amazing.

Chilly morning through the canyon out of V. Warmed almost instantly after.

I’ve entered the Galician region, with new weather patterns, dialects, and spiritualities amidst a Celtic like atmosphere (complete with bagpipe music playing in every joint in town). The food has also changed, which I got a taste of tonight with a piping hot bowl of caldo gallego alongside fried trout and potatoes. 😋

When I arrived in O, a town with a population of 50, I thought I’d taken a wrong turn because people were everywhere. I soon realized that O is a beloved destination, not only for its food and wine, but for its mountain vistas and sledding hills.

Walking around town felt like visiting a skiing villiage with everyone outfitted in slick gear and outfits. Kids were on cloud nine pulling sleds around town in one hand and eating ice cream in the other.

In O, I visited the 9thC Iglesia de Santa Maria Real (see photo). The town is tiny, but its shops and sites invite slow strolling and lingering.

The hike was rugged and STEEP at the end. Tomorrow I’ll make my way down the mountain, ever closer to SDC.

On the way out of P this morning I detoured to see the 12thC Castillo de los Templarios (pic, castle looking structure with human aside large dog). Amazing site. The history of the Knights Templar is fascinating and has inroads to modern culture in astounding ways.

Given that today was my bday, I strolled lazily and stopped for coffee more than necessary. Spanish coffee, unlike its perplexing dinner hour, will be sorely missed once I’m back home.

Detoured off-Way through picturesque vineyards that stretched on into the horizon.

V is nestled in a beautiful canyon drenched in Camino and church history.

I had a yummy, traditional dinner at a local hot spot.

My stroll home was energized by the movie-set like atmosphere and my family’s well wishes which I awoke to in the form of a bday video def rated PG-13 thanks to my rococo bro in law. (There are some things you can’t unsee)

Dense weekend of hiking ahead followed by mellow strolls to SDC. Can’t believe I’m so close already (8 walks left).

In light of all the joy ppl sent me, let me say…

Love you so, God bless—B

A picturesque hike up and down the mountain, through historic villages. Only the end, entering into the city, was on unforgiving concrete sidewalks.

The hike was high mileage and the snow made for a tricky descent which didn’t help my pace. But acceptance is part of the gig.

I arrived in P ready for a bath and rest. Managed to squeeze in a good supper. I’ll explore the sites tomorrow after breakfast before making my next trek. Now it’s time for 🛌

💤

A tidy walk under grey skies started off at a bustling cafe in A where the owner insisted on feeding me a massive tortilla followed by two delicious americanos and endless sweetbread, which she practically gave me in terms of cost. She yelled “Buen Camino” as I left. Maybe the best start to my day thus far. Definitely the fullest I’ve felt after breakfast since leaving home!

Aside from me I saw 6 other pilgrims. Three from Spain I had a good chat with before they pushed on to the next town up. (They are hiking their 4th Camino)

R might be my favorite stop so far, a pilgrim refuge with centuries of tradition (the Knights Templar reportedly had a presence here in the 12thC, helping ensure the safe passage of pilgrims).

I attended Vespers at the 12thC Monasterio benedictino San Salvador del Monte Irago (photos: exterior and main altar). After I had a delightful conversation with one of the monks who gave me a blessing and a task to take to Santiago, which I gladly accepted.

Tomorrow I’ll take a longish hike to the highest point of the Camino before descending to my next stop.

Blessed with another sunny day. Longish walk, only saw three other pilgrims who were traveling together.

Had to rush a bit to make it in time to tour the Cathedral (photos: exterior and main altar) and Gaudí’s Palacio Episcopal (photos: exterior, castle looking building with cathedral in background; interior, chapel with paintings on both walls). Both were amazing and worth the hustle.

A is an amazing, historic town perched on a steep ridge.

Today’s walk was ripe with breathtaking vistas. But photos don’t capture it. I was also briefly stopped by a shepherd and his flock (see photo), which is just about the coolest thing that could’ve happened!

I love spending time in cities with lots to do and tour and eat. But I’m always eager to move away from them when the time comes so that I can ramble and pray while walking and resting and nibbling. So much of what I’m seeing is majestic. But it’s the Way that pulls my heart strings. St Augustine has something smart to say about this tension but I can’t remember the quote and I’m too lazy to look for it right now.

Took an alt route today (to avoid the hectic sendas that run along highways) and was saved from getting too lost by a dear elder who led me back to the path I needed to follow. Navigating, thankfully, got easier further along.

A rambling, remote walk, without another pilgrim around (after León’s burbs). It’s amazing the depth of thought—and range of emotion—some walks inspire.

The icy start to the day didn’t last long under a bright sun. The shortish walk to L was, to me, the easiest entry into a major city so far.

L is an amazing place. The Cathedral Pluchra Leonina is splendid. I arrived just as Mass was wrapping up and you could hear (and feel) the roar of the organ from outside. In the square, hundreds were sitting and standing and taking in the postlude, briefly transforming the entire square into an extension of the congregation inside. Then a protest about not killing Greyhound dogs once they’re done racing showed up, with cops and megaphones and terrifying photos of…nevermind that.

Tourist highlights: Museo Gaudí, exhibit of Dalí‘s rendition of Dante’s Inferno, and the Picasso special exhibition.

As with other big cities, I seek out the small churches for prayer and quiet. There are several around, and I’m always humbled and heartened when I step inside and find a living, breathing congregation of faithful people praying and hoping and worshipping. Starting each week with a bit of church still warms my heart, even half way around the world.

Taking a so called “mystical” path that’s off the official Way tomorrow.

As I made my way out of S this crisp morning I stopped to listen to the monks chant the Hours. A bright, warm, no jacket required day set in by 10.

I bumped into a pilgrim from days 2-3 and walked with him for about 12km. He was nursing an injury so we went slowish and rested more than I usually do, which was welcome given my long (22.5 mile) hike. Def won’t hike another one that long unless necessary.

Otherwise it was a solitary stretch before the bustle of the big city tomorrow.

At dinner I met a new pilgrim. She spoke only Korean so we chatted through google translate which made for humorous, lost in translation, exchanges.

M is a great small town. My hostel overlooks the city park and so I got to enjoy the sight and sound of families making the most of a near-perfect evening.

My Camino is more than halfway done. Hard to believe I’m here already.

A great forecast awaits tomorrow’s shortish walk to León.

Another shortish walk. Warmest day yet. Met a new pilgrim, had a nice chat. Ran into another pilgrim I hadn’t seen since Roncesvalles nursing an injury. The Camino isn’t a contact sport, but the risks are real!

Tomorrow I’ll make my longest hike yet. 22.5 miles. Say a prayer for me, my feet especially. Doing this gets me extra time to explore León. (Many do it this way, for the same reason)

Shortish walks today and tomorrow in preparation for a long one Sat. Today’s walk was the first that didn’t require a coat and hat (after noon)!

The walks have been quiet. Only 1-2 pilgrims way off in the distance. Passed one going in the opposite direction with a trailer attached. Not the first pilgrim I’ve seen doing the Camino backwards, but def the first person I’ve seen with a trailer attached to them. Like ever. I tried to take a pic but he turned around at the same time. Awkward.

As you can see, another city’s swarm of cats followed me from the edge of town to a restaurant where I stopped for a snack. They tried to convince me to buy them lunch by staring into my soul with their cat eyes. But I held my ground. I endured a few mewed curse words before they were on their way.

I rather enjoy this flatland portion, especially with the weather like it is.

Today’s route was the first on the dreaded sendas, which are pilgrim paths that run aside main roads. Thankfully I got good advice and took an alternate “mystical” route that ran along the river Ucieza. Amazing vistas that spanned all the way to the mountains.

I stopped to rest at the hermitage of Our Lady of the River (solo building w bench). Such a peaceful place.

I made it to C in time for a quick snack before taking a siesta. After that I stopped by the 11thC San Zoilo Real Monasterio (photo, ornate wall), which is now a museum and posh hotel. I couldn’t go inside because everyone was on vacation. Seriously, that’s what the sign said.

More good weather is forecasted for tomorrow’s walk.