A long awaited walk. When I got to the cathedral square I sat down to soak it in. It’s hard to summarize how I felt, am feeling. Mostly it’s gratitude and love, for friends and family, for God. For it all.

Tomorrow morn I’ll attend the pilgrim Mass at the cathedral and enjoy one more day in SDC before heading to the UK for a bit, then home to S & E (& C).

This morning’s lectionary reading was from 2 Chronicles, a book in the Bible that isn’t exactly a page turner. The last line was, “and the Lord gave them rest all around.” At this moment, I’d summarize my pilgrimage as a gifted rest. Rest to a racing mind. Rest to ego. Rest to attempts at control. Rest to BS. Rest in what is.

Perhaps in time I’ll write something about this that makes more sense. But maybe not. All I know is, I pray a portion of this lives in me and I in it.

Shortish walk to O. Bright and sunny, warm bordering on hot. On the way out of A, I stopped to pray at Iglesia de Santiago (photo, circle windows) and had a charming interaction with a local.

Leafy walk at points in eucalyptus filled woods. Even more pilgrims today as other routes are converging into SDC.

Before dinner I attended Mass at Igrexa de Santa Eulalia (photo), technically in the parlor of the parsonage across the lawn. The priests gave a nice pilgrim blessing and I was off to find supper. A lovely sunset on the walk to back to my hostel.

Tomorrow, on what will be the 33rd walk of my Camino, I’ll arrive in Santiago de Compostela.

Warmed up quickly. Long walk under clear, sunny skies. To get into Melide, today’s midpoint, one has to cross the medieval bridge Ponte Velha (photo).

Melide is known, among other things, for its octopus pulpo (photo). I was literally ordered by a couple Spaniards to eat some, so I did. I’d rate it a solid B in the taste dept. (One said he’s walking the Camino partially for Melide’s pulpo) On the way out of town I stopped in Iglesia de Sancti Spiritus (photos in and out). It’s been there since the 14thC and once housed an Augustinian monastery (it has an active local congregation that uses it now).

Tomorrow I’ll make my 2nd to last walk before arriving in SDC. Unbelievable.

Shortly after leaving Portomarín, I detoured to the 4thC BC castro (photo, ruins), which was inhabited until the 1stC AD, in the beginning of the Roman occupation. It had several purposes over the years, from vegetable storage to strong house.

Further up the way I visited the tiny Capela da Magdalena (photo), a former hospital of the Knights Templar that catered to pilgrims especially.

The last photo is the 12thC Igrexa de San Tirso where I attended Mass. It ended with a lovely pilgrim blessing. Another plus: the hymn lyrics were on a TV so I could sing with the congregation!

On the way out of S I stopped by the ruins of Sarria castle Fortazela de Sarria (photo). To leave the city you have to cross the medieval bridge Ponte Áspera (photo) named for its rough carved stone.

A great walk through forests and farmland. I’ve officially crossed the ‘less than 100km’ mark. Only a few hikes left. Close enough to feel the gravitational pull of home in my heart, most especially for S & E.

P is a riverside town, notable not least of which for the Romanesque fortress church of St John (photo). It was built as both a place of worship and defense. Gives a whole new meaning to St Paul’s advice to the Ephesians! (That’s both a dad/theology nerd joke for which I offer no apology)

As of yesterday, I’d met 13 other pilgrims total. Today I met 18 new ones, which proves the guidebooks right: the last 100kms are very popular.

The other photo is of the ancient, steep, and rocky descent into P. The stones are smooth from the millions of pilgrim feet over 1,000+ years.

A warm walk from the outset through the Galician countryside, with rolling hills home to farms and pastures and thick woods.

On the way out of T, I swung by a 16thC blacksmith’s shop (photo, rounded portion along wall) where ancient pilgrims once ate and tended their horses (old school Spanish blacksmiths knew their way around a kitchen too it seems).

After that, HOLY COW! A lot of 🐮. Like A LOT a lot. Which means I dodged a lot of 💩 today.

In S, after checking to make sure the bottoms of my shoes were clean (they were), I checked out the 13thC Monasterio de la Magdalena (long building w/bench in front). Later I went to Mass at the 19thC Iglesia de Santa Mariña (photo). The priest had us in and out of there in 22 mins flat. A Camino record!

More pilgrims have joined the Way now that it’s about 100kms to SDC, a common practice for various reasons.

As I savor these final walks, I notice I’m walking slower, stopping to rest and behold and coffee more than before. By God’s grace a measure of this slowness and curiosity will endure in me once this pilgrimage is through.

Beautiful day for a walk down the mountain. A bit slippery, but manageable.

On the way I passed through Liñares to see the 8thC parish church of San Esteban (photos, door into altar and church with low wall around)

Wasn’t able to find any church having Mass so I did devotions in the cathedral of creation. (RW Emerson would be proud)

Just before T, there’s an ancient stretch of Camino through Fillibal with narrow streets, granite buildings, and a marvelous tree (see photos).

The other church photograph is of T’s 18thC parish dedicated to Santiago (check out the 3 castles carved on the tower).

Nearby are ancient limestone quarries. Bygone pilgrims used to take as many stones as they could carry and deliver them to kilns a few cities away to help build Santiago’s cathedral. Pretty amazing.

Chilly morning through the canyon out of V. Warmed almost instantly after.

I’ve entered the Galician region, with new weather patterns, dialects, and spiritualities amidst a Celtic like atmosphere (complete with bagpipe music playing in every joint in town). The food has also changed, which I got a taste of tonight with a piping hot bowl of caldo gallego alongside fried trout and potatoes. 😋

When I arrived in O, a town with a population of 50, I thought I’d taken a wrong turn because people were everywhere. I soon realized that O is a beloved destination, not only for its food and wine, but for its mountain vistas and sledding hills.

Walking around town felt like visiting a skiing villiage with everyone outfitted in slick gear and outfits. Kids were on cloud nine pulling sleds around town in one hand and eating ice cream in the other.

In O, I visited the 9thC Iglesia de Santa Maria Real (see photo). The town is tiny, but its shops and sites invite slow strolling and lingering.

The hike was rugged and STEEP at the end. Tomorrow I’ll make my way down the mountain, ever closer to SDC.

On the way out of P this morning I detoured to see the 12thC Castillo de los Templarios (pic, castle looking structure with human aside large dog). Amazing site. The history of the Knights Templar is fascinating and has inroads to modern culture in astounding ways.

Given that today was my bday, I strolled lazily and stopped for coffee more than necessary. Spanish coffee, unlike its perplexing dinner hour, will be sorely missed once I’m back home.

Detoured off-Way through picturesque vineyards that stretched on into the horizon.

V is nestled in a beautiful canyon drenched in Camino and church history.

I had a yummy, traditional dinner at a local hot spot.

My stroll home was energized by the movie-set like atmosphere and my family’s well wishes which I awoke to in the form of a bday video def rated PG-13 thanks to my rococo bro in law. (There are some things you can’t unsee)

Dense weekend of hiking ahead followed by mellow strolls to SDC. Can’t believe I’m so close already (8 walks left).

In light of all the joy ppl sent me, let me say…

Love you so, God bless—B

A picturesque hike up and down the mountain, through historic villages. Only the end, entering into the city, was on unforgiving concrete sidewalks.

The hike was high mileage and the snow made for a tricky descent which didn’t help my pace. But acceptance is part of the gig.

I arrived in P ready for a bath and rest. Managed to squeeze in a good supper. I’ll explore the sites tomorrow after breakfast before making my next trek. Now it’s time for 🛌

💤

A tidy walk under grey skies started off at a bustling cafe in A where the owner insisted on feeding me a massive tortilla followed by two delicious americanos and endless sweetbread, which she practically gave me in terms of cost. She yelled “Buen Camino” as I left. Maybe the best start to my day thus far. Definitely the fullest I’ve felt after breakfast since leaving home!

Aside from me I saw 6 other pilgrims. Three from Spain I had a good chat with before they pushed on to the next town up. (They are hiking their 4th Camino)

R might be my favorite stop so far, a pilgrim refuge with centuries of tradition (the Knights Templar reportedly had a presence here in the 12thC, helping ensure the safe passage of pilgrims).

I attended Vespers at the 12thC Monasterio benedictino San Salvador del Monte Irago (photos: exterior and main altar). After I had a delightful conversation with one of the monks who gave me a blessing and a task to take to Santiago, which I gladly accepted.

Tomorrow I’ll take a longish hike to the highest point of the Camino before descending to my next stop.

Blessed with another sunny day. Longish walk, only saw three other pilgrims who were traveling together.

Had to rush a bit to make it in time to tour the Cathedral (photos: exterior and main altar) and Gaudí’s Palacio Episcopal (photos: exterior, castle looking building with cathedral in background; interior, chapel with paintings on both walls). Both were amazing and worth the hustle.

A is an amazing, historic town perched on a steep ridge.

Today’s walk was ripe with breathtaking vistas. But photos don’t capture it. I was also briefly stopped by a shepherd and his flock (see photo), which is just about the coolest thing that could’ve happened!

I love spending time in cities with lots to do and tour and eat. But I’m always eager to move away from them when the time comes so that I can ramble and pray while walking and resting and nibbling. So much of what I’m seeing is majestic. But it’s the Way that pulls my heart strings. St Augustine has something smart to say about this tension but I can’t remember the quote and I’m too lazy to look for it right now.