It felt good to leave the loud city and resume quiet walking. It was a cool, sunny day. Perfect for hiking from P over the mountains and through remote trails that wind through ancient cities.

I’m noticing the typical hamster wheel of things I think of are fading, which is unusual for me. I stew insufferably. It’s my super power.

This isn’t to say I’m feeling enlightened. Enlightenment would be a waste on me, even if I desired it. But I feel less attached to the BS and more drawn to the citadel of my heart where real estate is scarce and no trespassing signs abound.

An added joy are the letters my family and friends wrote me to read along the way. Last night, thanks to a particularly touching one, I started dinner looking like I did after my first heartbreak in 8th grade. Some people are so beautiful when they cry. Not me. I look like my face is starting to melt like the dude in Raiders of the Lost Ark, only redder and with a beard.

Weather’s looking good tomorrow. Already looking forward to the walk.

Z got heavy snows most of the night. The plows were out by morning, which gave me hope for walking. But when I asked the bartender below my hostel if she thought it okay for me to walk along the highway she said something like, “eres loco peregrino, toma un taxi!” All the guidebooks insist to follow the locals advice, so I did.

The taxi meant I lost out on a walk, but earned a full day in P instead. Solid trade imo. (I probably logged as many miles exploring as I would walking) I’ll spare any summary and offer this instead: amazing city.

Tomorrow the weather looks wonderful all the way to my next stop.

Awoke to find R covered in more snow. The traditional path was a no-go with 2ft+ (see photo). Thankfully the highway was walkable, which I took all the way to Zubiri. Cold and snowy (brief sun), but occasionally had another pilgrim to chat with. Asphalt is unfriendly to feet! Tonight in Z there’s a blizzard. Power at the hostel is off & on, but I managed to get a bite to eat in the daylight. Locals are pumped, happy play in the snow. Will head out tomorrow at daybreak depending on the weather. Sad to be leaving the mountains, but not sad to enter an altitude that’s less wonky weather wise.

Awoken by a rude rooster. The walk: rainy, lite then heavy, turning to snow in the mountains. Few bits of sun. Holy hills! The walk was like a Sunday unto itself, even the dodgy bits.

I slowly walked the Way up but learned others after were stopped by the police and forced to take a cab to R due to conditions—lucky me! R is beautiful covered in snow. Met a few more pilgrims. Interesting ppl from all over. Tonight, Mass with the priests at the Royal Collegiate Church. Tomorrow, set out early, weather permitting.

Truth has been on vacation long enough—it’s time to put it back to work.