A tidy walk under grey skies started off at a bustling cafe in A where the owner insisted on feeding me a massive tortilla followed by two delicious americanos and endless sweetbread, which she practically gave me in terms of cost. She yelled “Buen Camino” as I left. Maybe the best start to my day thus far. Definitely the fullest I’ve felt after breakfast since leaving home!
Aside from me I saw 6 other pilgrims. Three from Spain I had a good chat with before they pushed on to the next town up. (They are hiking their 4th Camino)
R might be my favorite stop so far, a pilgrim refuge with centuries of tradition (the Knights Templar reportedly had a presence here in the 12thC, helping ensure the safe passage of pilgrims).
I attended Vespers at the 12thC Monasterio benedictino San Salvador del Monte Irago (photos: exterior and main altar). After I had a delightful conversation with one of the monks who gave me a blessing and a task to take to Santiago, which I gladly accepted.
Tomorrow I’ll take a longish hike to the highest point of the Camino before descending to my next stop.
