A picturesque hike up and down the mountain, through historic villages. Only the end, entering into the city, was on unforgiving concrete sidewalks.

The hike was high mileage and the snow made for a tricky descent which didn’t help my pace. But acceptance is part of the gig.

I arrived in P ready for a bath and rest. Managed to squeeze in a good supper. I’ll explore the sites tomorrow after breakfast before making my next trek. Now it’s time for 🛌

💤

A tidy walk under grey skies started off at a bustling cafe in A where the owner insisted on feeding me a massive tortilla followed by two delicious americanos and endless sweetbread, which she practically gave me in terms of cost. She yelled “Buen Camino” as I left. Maybe the best start to my day thus far. Definitely the fullest I’ve felt after breakfast since leaving home!

Aside from me I saw 6 other pilgrims. Three from Spain I had a good chat with before they pushed on to the next town up. (They are hiking their 4th Camino)

R might be my favorite stop so far, a pilgrim refuge with centuries of tradition (the Knights Templar reportedly had a presence here in the 12thC, helping ensure the safe passage of pilgrims).

I attended Vespers at the 12thC Monasterio benedictino San Salvador del Monte Irago (photos: exterior and main altar). After I had a delightful conversation with one of the monks who gave me a blessing and a task to take to Santiago, which I gladly accepted.

Tomorrow I’ll take a longish hike to the highest point of the Camino before descending to my next stop.

Blessed with another sunny day. Longish walk, only saw three other pilgrims who were traveling together.

Had to rush a bit to make it in time to tour the Cathedral (photos: exterior and main altar) and Gaudí’s Palacio Episcopal (photos: exterior, castle looking building with cathedral in background; interior, chapel with paintings on both walls). Both were amazing and worth the hustle.

A is an amazing, historic town perched on a steep ridge.

Today’s walk was ripe with breathtaking vistas. But photos don’t capture it. I was also briefly stopped by a shepherd and his flock (see photo), which is just about the coolest thing that could’ve happened!

I love spending time in cities with lots to do and tour and eat. But I’m always eager to move away from them when the time comes so that I can ramble and pray while walking and resting and nibbling. So much of what I’m seeing is majestic. But it’s the Way that pulls my heart strings. St Augustine has something smart to say about this tension but I can’t remember the quote and I’m too lazy to look for it right now.

Took an alt route today (to avoid the hectic sendas that run along highways) and was saved from getting too lost by a dear elder who led me back to the path I needed to follow. Navigating, thankfully, got easier further along.

A rambling, remote walk, without another pilgrim around (after León’s burbs). It’s amazing the depth of thought—and range of emotion—some walks inspire.

The icy start to the day didn’t last long under a bright sun. The shortish walk to L was, to me, the easiest entry into a major city so far.

L is an amazing place. The Cathedral Pluchra Leonina is splendid. I arrived just as Mass was wrapping up and you could hear (and feel) the roar of the organ from outside. In the square, hundreds were sitting and standing and taking in the postlude, briefly transforming the entire square into an extension of the congregation inside. Then a protest about not killing Greyhound dogs once they’re done racing showed up, with cops and megaphones and terrifying photos of…nevermind that.

Tourist highlights: Museo Gaudí, exhibit of Dalí‘s rendition of Dante’s Inferno, and the Picasso special exhibition.

As with other big cities, I seek out the small churches for prayer and quiet. There are several around, and I’m always humbled and heartened when I step inside and find a living, breathing congregation of faithful people praying and hoping and worshipping. Starting each week with a bit of church still warms my heart, even half way around the world.

Taking a so called “mystical” path that’s off the official Way tomorrow.

As I made my way out of S this crisp morning I stopped to listen to the monks chant the Hours. A bright, warm, no jacket required day set in by 10.

I bumped into a pilgrim from days 2-3 and walked with him for about 12km. He was nursing an injury so we went slowish and rested more than I usually do, which was welcome given my long (22.5 mile) hike. Def won’t hike another one that long unless necessary.

Otherwise it was a solitary stretch before the bustle of the big city tomorrow.

At dinner I met a new pilgrim. She spoke only Korean so we chatted through google translate which made for humorous, lost in translation, exchanges.

M is a great small town. My hostel overlooks the city park and so I got to enjoy the sight and sound of families making the most of a near-perfect evening.

My Camino is more than halfway done. Hard to believe I’m here already.

A great forecast awaits tomorrow’s shortish walk to León.

Another shortish walk. Warmest day yet. Met a new pilgrim, had a nice chat. Ran into another pilgrim I hadn’t seen since Roncesvalles nursing an injury. The Camino isn’t a contact sport, but the risks are real!

Tomorrow I’ll make my longest hike yet. 22.5 miles. Say a prayer for me, my feet especially. Doing this gets me extra time to explore León. (Many do it this way, for the same reason)

Shortish walks today and tomorrow in preparation for a long one Sat. Today’s walk was the first that didn’t require a coat and hat (after noon)!

The walks have been quiet. Only 1-2 pilgrims way off in the distance. Passed one going in the opposite direction with a trailer attached. Not the first pilgrim I’ve seen doing the Camino backwards, but def the first person I’ve seen with a trailer attached to them. Like ever. I tried to take a pic but he turned around at the same time. Awkward.

As you can see, another city’s swarm of cats followed me from the edge of town to a restaurant where I stopped for a snack. They tried to convince me to buy them lunch by staring into my soul with their cat eyes. But I held my ground. I endured a few mewed curse words before they were on their way.

I rather enjoy this flatland portion, especially with the weather like it is.

Today’s route was the first on the dreaded sendas, which are pilgrim paths that run aside main roads. Thankfully I got good advice and took an alternate “mystical” route that ran along the river Ucieza. Amazing vistas that spanned all the way to the mountains.

I stopped to rest at the hermitage of Our Lady of the River (solo building w bench). Such a peaceful place.

I made it to C in time for a quick snack before taking a siesta. After that I stopped by the 11thC San Zoilo Real Monasterio (photo, ornate wall), which is now a museum and posh hotel. I couldn’t go inside because everyone was on vacation. Seriously, that’s what the sign said.

More good weather is forecasted for tomorrow’s walk.

A steep climb up and down the plateau gives way to Spain’s Meseta, a landscape that is a total masterpiece. My photos don’t do it justice. Breathtaking vistas that stretched on for miles thanks to a clear, cool, and sunny day. I’d walk it again tomorrow if I could.

Today I moved into the province of Palencia, abundant with rivers and canals that irrigate the deep brown soil out from which sprouts wheat, vegetables, and vineyards.

The track I started on this morning was laid 2,000 years ago by the Romans (see photos, down hill toward city and low stone bridge). People have been journeying on it everyday since. Stop and think about that—FEEL it!

So many people who live along the Way dedicate themselves to it, and the pilgrims who walk it. Every day I, and countless others, are recipients of that dedication. Every day.

The Way, if you want it to be, is just as much and inner journey as an outer one.

Solo walk that started cloudy/chilly turned to bright/pleasant by noon. Arrived in C to learn that the city’s water supply is off, which means I’m staying one town up and will taxi back in the morn to complete the walk to my next stop. No biggie.

Along the Way I wound through the 14th century ruins of the ancient covento de San Anton (photo, archway with street running thru). I then visited the splendidly relaxing Covento de Santa Clara (photo, cross on right) also dating to the 14thC. There I enjoyed the nun’s bird breeding cages and meditated in their sunny, quiet square.

I can’t help but think how this Way is like walking deeper into my heart. I hardly think about much of anything. Instead I just feel God’s grace and gratitude and openness (and sometimes a sore foot).

Also photoed: C’s 9thC hilltop castle ruins.

With the luxury of a taxi I previewed 11thC St Martin church in Fromista (photo, solo church w/three apses) while it was open for tours. It’s been meticulously remolded and evokes such reverence in its simplicity. The altar has a wood carved crucifix flanked by St Martin (of course) and Santiago.

The scenery has flattened out giving the eye such a treat with all green and brown and distant snow capped mountains.

Even warmer, sunnier tomorrow. Can’t wait.

Once I figured out how to get out of B, I enjoyed a pleasant and (relatively) short walk to H.

On the way out of B I stopped by the Real Monasterio de Las Huelgas (see photo, gate & walls). I made a wish by the fountain and swung back by the cathedral with the thought of going to Mass but I was a bit too late to slip in unnoticed.

I managed to make Mass further up the Way in Tardajos. A delightful service with people of all ages and music provided by a wonderful vocalist accompanied by a guitar. I tripped on my way out of church and startled a bunch of folks. My clumsiness was comic relief for about 15 kids and a few parents who tried their hardest to conceal their laughter.

Walked a bit with another pilgrim on the way out of B. We’d met before about a week ago. It was nice to reconnect.

H is a tiny town with next to nothing to do, see. Perfect for a long day of rest.