🥶 cold walk today! Walking into and out of big cities must be an acquired taste, one I’ve yet to acquire, and unlikely will. But once in Burgos, it’s pure delight.

Touring the cathedral was mega. If I could summarize how amazing it is, I would. But I can’t.

Today’s walk was another lonely one. No other pilgrims. I feel so grateful to have made it this far. Along the way there are altars people have erected. Other pilgrims and passersby attach prayers and photos and messages to them (see photo). To stand face to face with so much hope and prayer and loss and love is worth all the miles it takes to walk this Way. To find the remnants of someone’s heart’s desire is…i don’t know. It’s just grace, an inbreaking of goodness into our troubled world.

Cold tomorrow, then sunny for the foreseeable future.

Snow in the mountains, but otherwise cold and clear on either sides below. No other pilgrims on the way, but I saw some dudes in the mountains tooling around in a bizarre looking vehicle. They got a kick out of a pilgrim alone in the snowy mountains and photographed me as I passed by. (They offered me a ride, which I found touching)

Hiking out of Belorado you can see the caves ancient hermits once used (see photo). The 12th century Augustinian monastery in San Juan is a highlight in an otherwise desolate town, especially this time of year.

The compassion of strangers is humbling. There’s a story there, but no time for that now. All I’ll say is, God is good.

Forecast has sunnier and warmer weather in store. I can’t wait!

I’ve now passed from the La Rioja region into Castilla y Leon. Today’s walk was another solitary one, though with a burst of sun for a bit! Very small towns and no other pilgrims. I was greeted by a swarm of cats in St Dominic’s birthplace, Viloria de la Rioja. They followed me all the way to the other side of town and mewed as I left.

Arriving in Belorado I visited the Monastery of Santa Clara (see photo) that dates to the 14th century. The altarpiece is amazing (see photo). I tried to purchase some of the nun’s famous candy and cookies but no one answered the bell. I’ll try again tomorrow. Likely another remote walk tomorrow with possibly some snow.

A charming, solitary (I saw no one) walk along poorly marked paths. This one passed through an almost entirely empty (and soulless) housing complex. Such an eerie, perplexing site that clearly no one wants to move to.

The dirt has changed from brown to deep red, characteristic of the Rioja region—renowned for its wines and friendly atmosphere (both true in my experience).

My hostel hosts received me with such warmth! They talked me into having a late breakfast with them in their indoor garden.

I was mesmerized by the cathedral in SD, especially the altarpiece with live chickens in it (see photo, top right, squint). I think cathedrals are amazing. But for whatever reason, I seek out the small churches to pray in.

Another manageable walk tomorrow, likely with a bit of rain. Looking forward to it. Rain helps me think.

The cloudy skies offered a fitting backdrop for an introspective walk.

Arriving in N, I toured the amazing Monastery of Santa Maria la Real (abandoned in 2017, now being restored as a museum). Many of the Basque noble families from the 16th to 18th century are entombed here. The church is breathtaking inside, especially the main altar which is a Riojan Romanesque masterpiece (see photo). I’m especially fond of St Benedict and he makes an appearance in it!

Two ~20m hikes in a row isn’t to be sneezed at (at least for me). Tomorrow I have a tidy hike—good for the feet!

My hostel hosts tonight and tomorrow morn are so charming. It’s people like this, and the abundance of welcome they offer, that make the Camino feel personal. It’s humbling to be welcomed like family in a foreign land.

Brrrr 🥶 18+ miler today. Lots of fun. Too busy for a long post. Love y’all.

Very tidy walk through rolling hills under pleasant skies. Most remote walk yet. Hardly any cities, ppl. Only saw a handful of locals mountain biking or hiking.

Arrived in LA just as the annual town festival was winding down. Dinner was a trip with all the revelers reveling.

Tomorrow I will attempt my longest walk thus far. Pray for my feet!

Pleasant, cool walk under blue skies and sun—Wound through delightful cities.

I’ve discovered my favorite afternoon snack: a cortado and two Gildas. They give me a good pick-me-up just as my feet start to fall off.

I’m currently watching a soccer—football?—match in a bar, waiting for the cook to show up (many kitchens don’t open ‘til 8). By the time I eat every night I’m SO hungry. But it tastes DELICIOUS. (I should wait until I’m hungry to eat more often, but that’s not going to last once I get back home where my snack-packed kitchen awaits) The other day I held myself over with a Kind cereal bar. Best thing I’ve ever eaten, like 3* Michelin stuff. Actually better, like manna from heaven.

E is a marvelous city, very strollable, packed with character and history. What a blessing. Tomorrow’s weather looks similar to today’s.

It felt good to leave the loud city and resume quiet walking. It was a cool, sunny day. Perfect for hiking from P over the mountains and through remote trails that wind through ancient cities.

I’m noticing the typical hamster wheel of things I think of are fading, which is unusual for me. I stew insufferably. It’s my super power.

This isn’t to say I’m feeling enlightened. Enlightenment would be a waste on me, even if I desired it. But I feel less attached to the BS and more drawn to the citadel of my heart where real estate is scarce and no trespassing signs abound.

An added joy are the letters my family and friends wrote me to read along the way. Last night, thanks to a particularly touching one, I started dinner looking like I did after my first heartbreak in 8th grade. Some people are so beautiful when they cry. Not me. I look like my face is starting to melt like the dude in Raiders of the Lost Ark, only redder and with a beard.

Weather’s looking good tomorrow. Already looking forward to the walk.

Z got heavy snows most of the night. The plows were out by morning, which gave me hope for walking. But when I asked the bartender below my hostel if she thought it okay for me to walk along the highway she said something like, “eres loco peregrino, toma un taxi!” All the guidebooks insist to follow the locals advice, so I did.

The taxi meant I lost out on a walk, but earned a full day in P instead. Solid trade imo. (I probably logged as many miles exploring as I would walking) I’ll spare any summary and offer this instead: amazing city.

Tomorrow the weather looks wonderful all the way to my next stop.

Awoke to find R covered in more snow. The traditional path was a no-go with 2ft+ (see photo). Thankfully the highway was walkable, which I took all the way to Zubiri. Cold and snowy (brief sun), but occasionally had another pilgrim to chat with. Asphalt is unfriendly to feet! Tonight in Z there’s a blizzard. Power at the hostel is off & on, but I managed to get a bite to eat in the daylight. Locals are pumped, happy play in the snow. Will head out tomorrow at daybreak depending on the weather. Sad to be leaving the mountains, but not sad to enter an altitude that’s less wonky weather wise.

Awoken by a rude rooster. The walk: rainy, lite then heavy, turning to snow in the mountains. Few bits of sun. Holy hills! The walk was like a Sunday unto itself, even the dodgy bits.

I slowly walked the Way up but learned others after were stopped by the police and forced to take a cab to R due to conditions—lucky me! R is beautiful covered in snow. Met a few more pilgrims. Interesting ppl from all over. Tonight, Mass with the priests at the Royal Collegiate Church. Tomorrow, set out early, weather permitting.